the art of the bartender

Jerry Thomas, aka 'The Professor' setting the cocktail world alight in the 19th century

It’s World Bartender Day on the 24th of February so we thought we’d delve into the history books and meet some of the most influential bartenders of all time.

First, though, let’s have a look at what makes a good bartender. Obviously their ability to mix a good drink is important. They can make all the classics but they also know how to innovate, putting their personal (excuse the pun) twist on familiar cocktails and creating their own recipes. But knowledge and technical skills are only part of the story. Have you ever seen a really good bartender at work?  They’re incredibly organised and cool under pressure. They’re great hosts and often entertainers. We once checked out of a hotel in Amsterdam with a bar bill bigger than our room bill because we enjoyed watching and chatting to the bartender so much.

What sets a really great bartender apart, though, is their ability to make a connection with their guests. By making you feel like you’re the most important person in the bar, a great bartender can elevate an ordinary drink into an unforgettable experience.

Considered to be the father of American mixology and also known as the Professor, Jerry Thomas popularised cocktail drinking in America during the 19th century. He was born around 1830, and worked across the USA including a stint in California during the Gold Rush. A flamboyant character and natural showman, he was brilliant at self-promotion. His signature drink was the Blue Blazer which involved pouring a stream of flaming whisky from one metal cup to another.

Known as Coley, Ada Coleman was a trailblazer for female bartenders. She started her bartending career at Claridge’s in 1899 before moving onto The Savoy where she worked as head bartender at the famous American Bar from 1903 to 1926. By all accounts she was a charismatic figure and great entertainer who served drinks to some of the era’s most famous faces including Charlie Chaplin and the Prince of Wales. Her signature creation was the Hanky Panky.

Ada Coleman serving up some Hanky Panky at the Savoy

Harry Craddock succeeded Ada Coleman as head bartender at the American Bar. Prior to that, he’d been working in America and legend has it that he shook the last legal cocktail before Prohibition began. In 1930, he published the seminal The Savoy Cocktail Book which contained more than 700 recipes and has remained in print ever since. He created a number of classics including the Corpse Reviver No. 2 and a Muddled Vintage favourite, the White Lady. Or did he? See Harry MacElhone below. He certainly buried a shaker containing one in the walls of the American bar during renovation work in 1927.

Born in Scotland in 1890, Harry MacElhone was one of the first bartenders in Europe. He worked primarily in France, most famously at his own place, Harry’s New York Bar which he opened in Paris in 1923. He was a talented mixologist, credited with inventing classics such as the Monkey Gland, Boulevardier and Sidecar. He’s also credited with inventing The White Lady. An early version of it certainly appeared in his book Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails although it contained creme de menthe rather than gin.

We’re not big fans of tiki cocktails here at Muddled HQ but no account of cocktail making would be complete without mention of Ernest Gantt AKA Donn Beach. The former bootlegger achieved fame serving cocktails inspired by the South Pacific at his LA bar during the 1940s and 50s. He served Hollywood’s biggest stars and invented iconic drinks such as the Zombie.

While Beach is credited with inventing tiki, it was his rival, the more business savvy Victor 'Trader Vic' Bergeron who really popularised it at his bar in Oakland in California. His most famous creation was the Mai Tai but his greatest achievement was establishing an international chain of bars and restaurants that introduced tiki culture to the world.

With an emphasis on pre-mixed ingredients and a decline in craftsmanship, cocktail culture suffered a slump in the 1970s and 80s before undergoing a renaissance thanks largely to the work of one man. Dale DeGroff, known as King Cocktail, rose to prominence in New York’s Rainbow Room in the late 1980s. His passion for fresh ingredients and meticulous techniques was groundbreaking. He revived many of the classics but also invented iconic drinks including the Cosmopolitan. He elevated cocktail making to an art form and remains an industry leader.